Lake District

08:26:27 o'clock BST

It's funny how you forget things, such as what it is like to see proper hills, rocky ground, having to - or more appropriately - being able to walk for miles up and down fells and valleys to reach the top of the peak that you are aiming for and of course views that stretch on and on across a skyline full of distant peaks and fells.

A winter locked away and spent in the south, sunbathing in February, shorts on in March had de-sensitised us a little. As we drove up to Kendal along the A65 with views across to Ingleborough, the Yorkshire Dales and the distant peaks of the Lake District our minds drifted back to the 3 Peaks Challenge, The Dales Way and the week we had last year in the Lakes wishing that there were areas like this slightly closer to
home. Unfortunately we have to make do with the occasional long weekend
hoping that the weather will be fine when we get there.

We were undecided about what to do - either a long walk in the dales or something slightly shorter in the Lakes, in the end the Lakes won and we set off in sunshine for an 11 mile circuit around Fairfield at 2864 feet - one of the top 20 tallest hills in England (which I "accidentally" forgot to tel Liz!)

Things didn't start too well, we noticed that the directions in the book we were following gave a slightly incorrect street name for the road that would eventually lead up to the path but we eventually worked it out and headed off with our first glimpses of the hills ahead towards the picturesque High Sweden Bridge.

There is a classic walk from this bridge along a series of long ridges to the summit of Fairfield and back - The Fairfield Horseshoe but the route we chose was slightly longer staying low in in the valley before finally ascending steeply up Scandale Pass then heading across fells to rejoin the ridge route at Dove Crag then onto Fairfield.

From the top of Fairfield it was possible to see the Helvellyn range and St Sunday Crag, the route of the Coast to Coast which we will be doing later in the year. It would be good if we get similar weather then.

From the summit the way back looks like a long gentle walk along a series of ridges and back down into Ambleside. It wasn't long before we realised that it wasn't so easy (particulary as Liz hates anything that goes down hill and has a bit of stone in it.  Too many falls coming to mind. particularly falling whilst coming down from Scafell Pike and having to walk a couple of mileswith a twisted ankle - not fun!). The ridge was not flat but made up of aseries of hills, Great Rigg, Heron Pike and Lord Crag and although we
found the uphill sections relatively easy both of us struggled with the steep descents, particularly the last series of zig zags into Rydal Hall.

Thankfully the cafe at Rydal Hall was open and we were pleased to be able to sit down and give our knees a rest as Lizzie enjoyed a hot chocolate with rum (and a packet of crisps - Lizzie's first in over a year)!

Afterwards we had a stroll around the shops in Ambleside, only spoilt by Lizzie being tripped and ending up sprawled on the pavement - hurting her shoulder (and pride) in the process.  Our planned trip back via Leeds climbing centre having to be postponed (now where have I heard that back before hmmmm............) as Lizzie was in too much pain.

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10:07:26 o'clock GMT

After completing the Dales Way we decided to spend a week in the Lakes and have a little bit of a rest but also build on the fitness we hoped to have built up over the last week and walk up some of the 3000 foot 'mountains' in the Lakes including Englands highest Scafell Pike.

We booked a lovely cottage just between Penrith and Carlisle - Mickle Rigg, which was part of a converted farm development Monkhouse Hill Cottages. Even though there were a number of other cottages and families staying at the same time it felt very secluded and quiet. An ideal place to relax after a day in the hills and just sit on the large lawn with a glass of wine watching the sun set. Cottage had everything - even a Chris Bonnington Climbing video to give us inspiration.

Skiddaw

The closest 3000 foot hill to the cottage was Skiddaw so we set about this one first. After some low level walking you start to ascend onto the ridge of Longside from where you can see the track sweeping around and up towards Skiddaw.

Spectacular views all around were dramatically supplemented by The Red Arrows Display Team flying in formation along the valley with Red White and Blue smoke trailing behind. Unfortunately it was so quick i didn't manage to take any pictures. Did they just do it for us or at least Liz, myself and the crowd of people who had suddenly appeared from nowhere! We had been joined by a sponsored challenge event and very tired people were struggling along on what we think was their third and last summit in 24 hours. Even though this was only a small event organised by the Electricity and Gas companies the impact of mini-bus parties blindly trudging up hills was clear to see, rocks spray painted to mark out the route litter and potential accidents especially as the going got steeper and footings started to give way. It became easy to appreciate the bad feeling that organised charity events such as the UK 3 peaks walk are starting to generate within local communities and rescue services.

Well they were coming down we were going up and of course just as we got to the top the cloud came down. Couldn't see a thing! Even at the end of June the wind at the top made it necessary to get out the jacket, hat and gloves.

Half an hour later as we were heading back to the car the cloud cleared and glorious sunshine illuminated the top of the hill.

High Street

Not one of Lizzie's usual trips to Karen Millen but a walkup to one of the oldest roads in England, the Roman Road on top of High Street. It was such a hot day and we struggled along. The small lake angle Tarn looked so appealing but we weren't tempted to join the people taking advantage of the cool water and diving in. The path up to High Street crosses the point where the coast to coast leaves the Lakes on its way East towards Robin Hoods Bay. We had already decided that this was going to be our 2006 adventure so it was interesting to pass people struggling under huge rucksacks including one guy who had like us just done the Dales Way but unlike us walked into the Lakes, by the time we met him due to the heat he was on his final drops of water and keen to get down to the Tarn to replenish.

Scafell Pike

Our first attempt failed really before we had started dark clouds overhead soon turned into a heavy downpour and after sheltering in a farm barn until it had passed we continued only to be greeted by even heavier clouds heading down the valley towards us. Wisely we turned round and got back to the shelter of the farm barn just in time to avoid a soaking.

A few days later we set off again, this time the weather was better and thankfully not as hot as our previous walk up High Street so almost ideal conditions.

We were unsure as to which way up to Scafell Pike would be the best, but during a trip into Keswick we had gone into one of the walking shops, Rathbones and the staff there suggested going from Borrowdale rather than spending hours in the car to Wasdale Head, they even downloaded the route onto my GPS for me.

After a very pleasant walk gradually climbing the path comes to Sty Head Tarn and Great Gable then on upward to Scafell Pike, with a final 500 scramble up some scree to the summit. Just before we reached the scree we met a couple of guys, one in his 80's who with the aid of his trekking poles was managing to cope with the high ground - at least Liz had someone she could keep up with ( on the way up that is ! ) The scree slope looked quite intimidating and there were a number of options toget up onto the final ridge - as Liz quickly observeed and had confirmation from the other guy with us I was taking them up the difficult way. At least the old guy made it.

There we were very briefly the highest people in England.

Following a little rest is was time to head back down, not being fully confident on big hills I was looking forward to having the company of the two other guys on the way down thinking that we could keep up with them. Of course I hadn't gambled on the turbo charged trekking poles, no sooner had he started to descend the old man was off, like roadrunner, a spot in the distance! Would have liked to have found out what he had in his flask at the top!

So there we were going back at our own pace when with about 2 miles to go before we would reach the car I heard a rumble and clatter of falling rocks behind me and turned round to see Liz on her backside with cuts and a twisted ankle. Thankfully the path back was not very steep and she managed to hobble back along the final few miles but the ankle stiffened up while we had an enforced wait as a farmer herded all of the sheep off the surrounding hillsides along the path back.

Climbing at Keswick

In between the walking we had a few days touring around, choosing a drizzly day to spend at the Rheged Mountain Exhibition watching a film about Everest on the Imax Cinema and we also went to the Keswick Climbing wall a couple of times. Not as big as the one at Leeds but enough walls to keep us happy. 

 

 

 

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