Chamonix 2005

17:12:43 o'clock GMT

Our first hiking trip out of the UK, not really knowing what to expect we booked a package with Crystal Active, 7 days in Chamonix staying at Les Aiglons Hotel.

The Hotel was superb, just under the Aiguille du Midi cable car with views from the balcony across the glacier to the Mont Blanc massif.

First day to get a feel of the area and also suss out how the cable car system works we took advantage of a guided walk organised by Crystal, a high level but flat route starting at the Index cable car rising gradually to Lac Blanc before descending back to the Flegere Cable Car. The idea of taking a cable car up hill and walking down isn't our idea of fun, walking up and cable car down seems more appropriate but thankfully this route had a good mix of rocky terrain and scrambles to excite.  Normally we tend to be out trekking alone only occassionally meeting others at summits or along the route so it was a new experience to be joined by 20+ others but soon the group split as we all found our own pace and it was quite nice to be able to chat with others as we went along.

All going smoothly until the final ascent and the altitude hit, for a short time it was like walking through treacle. Certainly understand now why mountaineers have to get used to the altitude and aclimatise! Something we would find out for ourselves a few days later when we took the cable car up to Aiguille du midi and struggled to walk up the metal staircase, thankfully the views from this high vantage point were awesome. Mont Blanc rising out of deep glacial valleys. We were so envious of the 'Alpinistes' roping  up and heading off onto the snow. That will have to wait for another year.

Second days walking took us onto the Mont Blanc massif range. Taking the Montevers railway to the Mer du Glace, walking up over the Signal and then along the ridge to the lower cable station of Aguille du Midi, again another reasonably level walk once the initial ascent was out of the way.

We took some time out to do a spot of climbing, first on real rock, our guide Denis arranged by Crystal, met us at Gaillands, a few minutes walk from the hotel. He made it look relatively easy taking up and fixing the lead rope to a grade 4 climb. Liz never having managed a grade 3 indoors took her time but didn't give in and reached the top, then onto a grade 5 with near impossible starting point but we both climbed the route. Great climbing in the sun, outside and with Mont Blanc behind.

Final day saw our first full ascent of a 2500 m peak, Le Brevent. starting from Chamonix there are a number of choices, one ascending by the 'ski run' and the other through the forest. The ski run looked the easiest a wide zig zag upwards but we took the forest trail eventually meeting the ski run below the lower cable car station. From here there is a bit of a tourist route to the summit or the option of taking a track around the front of the Aiguilles Rouges to Col du Brevent then across the back of the range to the summit. Needless to say by accident we went this way.

Halfway up we came across a group of impaired walkers being taken out on contraptions that looked like stretchers on top of large wheels, how the helpers managed to get these up and down the tracks is beyond me, they were closely followed by a Mule loaded with equipment. On one bend the mule above dislodged a rock that bounced on the path below then over the next bend almost hitting one of the people on the stretcher. Imagine you struggle all that way only to be brained by a falling rock!

By now we were in proper mountain terrain and not sure we were doing the right thing or even going the right way. Luckily the way ahead looked more intimidating than it was and the route was clearly marked in red paint so we continued turned a corner and saw the ladders. Yipes, our first Via Ferata and we weren't expecting it. Thankfully it wasn't too difficult and by the time we were on the second ladder it was quite enjoyable. Sadly in my panic i forgot all about taking any pictures. We will have to go back again!

Summit eventually reached, just in time. High winds had closed the cable car and they were only taking people down off the summit, needless to say we took advantage and jumped into the car saving our celebration drink of Kir for the cafe at the midway Planpraz station then before our legs seized up crawled into the cable car for the final descent down to the valley below.

So, that was our first experience of the Alps.

Unbelievable scenery, great walks and hospitality.

The mountains managed to show who is in control, a violent rock and ice fall occured while we were having a break at Lac Bleu close to the Aiguilles du Midi. we could hear the cracks and tumbling rock but fortunately too far away to see it. Sadly quite a few people were killed and badly hurt. That evening from our balcony we watched the rescue helicopters going back and forth, thankful for our own safety and aware that nature has a power to be respected.

 

So the things we liked

Tartiflette - yummy potato, onion, white wine with Rablochon cheese dish

Hotel Les Aiglons - great service from the staff, especially in the restaurant - first French people we have met sympathetic to vegetarians

Cable Car pass - sceptical at first but we used this everyday to get to and from walks, gave so much flixibility and freedom

The view from Aiguille du Midi

Watching the Alpinistes like little ants trekking towards the summit of Mont Blanc

Climbing with the view of the  Mont Blanc Massif

Sitting watching the parapenters throw themselves off the Brevent

and the thing we didn't

The service we received from Crystal.

Written by kevanliz Link to this entry | Blog about this entry |  Add to del.icio.us |  digg this This entry has 0 comments: Add your own